The real charm of Indian railways is the people you meet. Entire extended families will move in next to you for the 6 hour train journey with enough food for a week. Small children run up and down the aisles, climb the bunks and hang out the doors. This is their turf, they were raised on these trains. They smile at you with cheekiness and curiosity not letting you out of their site. Occasionally they'll be brave enough to sit beside you and trade stories for a short while. It is these interactions that break down all preconceptions of train travel in India.